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Well here we are home again all in one piece having driven over 4000 miles. That may not seem far for some but to us it’s a looooooooooooong way. We managed to get up to Belgium for 6pm on Tuesday which left us 24 hours to spend in Bruges before boarding the ferry to come home. Another beautiful city neither of us had visited before and we were very impressed. It is so Dutch we weren’t really prepared for that (I don’t know why) but it seems very different when you cross the border from France to Spain. The language of course is the first big difference and then there are the bikes everywhere, and the architecture. It reminded me of Amsterdam. The buildings in the centre are spectacular and of course the lace and the Belgian chocolates are for sale in every other shop. We even managed to squeeze in a trip around the museum of chocolate where we learned more about Mexico and the Spanish invasion than anything else. We had a lovely meal on the ferry coming back and then a long sleep as we were both pretty shattered we woke to find ourselves docking in good old Hull. Apart from a panic when I couldn’t find the passports all went swimmingly.

I dropped Bill’s phone in Vejer and now that’s not working and my camera still hasn’t put in an appearance which I’m sad about but otherwise we have come back with lots of fantastic memories and a desire to go off again and revisit some of the places we particularly liked. It makes us realise what a fabulous continent Europe is and how lucky we are to have such easy access.

I don’t think we will attempt camping again, well not in tents, although we both think a basic small caravan would be great to have next time. Anyone out there want a punctured air bed, a rubbish stove and a blue plastic bucket, with a lid, unused!

Bill seems to feel people may be interested in cheap hotels in Europe, I have my doubts personally but here we go.....

Return Journey – Economy Hotels

Campanille – Limoges Sud - €50 bed €9 each breakfast – free wifi

Very clean, large double bedded room with softest mattress of the 3 (memory foam – but it remembered someone else’s shape!) and only one to have coffee and tea-making facilities for the night.

Good on-site parking but nowhere to go without taking car. Asked directions in halting French for bus into city but found on walking out of hotel choice between motorway slip-road and verge of very busy arterial road so gave up idea of public transport.

Well-appointed bathroom with soap and shower gel and hair-dryer. Power shower with sprays from multiple points scouring and difficult to control but very exhilarating if it didn’t freeze or scald you first.

Breakfast choices more numerous – fruit salad, fruit juice, muesli dry fruits and nuts, ham, cheese yoghurt and bread and bakery items - than you need but all cold except if you wanted to toast bread or croissants. Expensive – so we paid for one and took it on a tray to our room to share.

Reception staff OK but morning staff didn’t speak English. No English stations or Radio 4 LW on room TV.

Hoel Balladins (Comfort Hotels Group) – Tours Nord - €45 €6.50 each breakfast – free wifi

Good on-site parking in an area where there was an Auchan and plenty of places to eat. 4km from city centre but good bus service every 15 mins from Auchan (NB stops about 9pm) Very clean but extremely compact room. Twin beds which we pushed together were firm but comfortable. Soap and shower gel provided in tiny, but functional bathroom, with good basic shower. Disturbed by people in adjacent rooms going in and out as doorways so close together. Few places to hang anything – even towels. TV but no English stations. Free beverages in the communal area and even breakfast cereals which you take to your room at any time. I don’t think there was any spare room for even an electric kettle!

Staff extremely helpful and friendly – speaking excellent English – and because of this I enjoyed this, the most basic of our return journey hotels, the most. Breakfast adequate with half –baguettes which were enough for lunch sandwiches.

Etap Hotel (Ibis – Accor Group) – Bruges Centrum Station - €49 €7 each breakfast €4.50 for 1h wifi

Parking in adjacent station car-park €2.50 for 24h. City centre 10 min walk away. Ultra-modern room, recently opened. Double bed hard and only one thin pillow. Towels like a cross between a towel and a tea-towel – but they were very functional and we actually preferred them to some of the very thick, “luxury” towels (which were somehow completely non-absorbent!) in expensive hotels. The only soap supplied was from a dispenser on the wall of the shower. (Only discovered that, the following morning when I had a shower!) No tea or coffee making facilities in room and not even allowed to take it to your room from breakfast area.

Power shower and good separate loo (no locking door). Didn’t like quirky wash basin with no plug in middle of room – impossible to bend over to wash your face without getting water on the floor.

Almost suffered concussion when the shower head came out of its bracket and fell on me. It’s a good job it didn’t have a long way to fall onto my head. Val said it was my fault for not seating it properly in its bracket. I wonder what “Injury Lawyers 4U” would say!

Bill’s Conclusion on the holiday:

In spite of the camping problems, we enjoyed the going more than the returning. I guess that’s true with any holiday. It was, however, a highlight of the entire holiday to see Cynthia, Terry and Madeleine in their Spanish and French homes.

We had a good rest in Vejer - and – with the Catastro progress and the new front door - we achieved much we felt. But, it was too quiet and we missed company and particularly family.

Three minuses:

1. Never being able to find anything in a car full of gear.
2. Inability, due to poor or non-existent internet connections and non-functioning mobile phones, to communicate with family and work people.
3. Living out of suitcases all the time on the road.

Left Madeleine’s about 9.30 we really enjoyed spending time with her again. She recommended that we called at Rocamadour and Sarlat on the way up to Limoges. We duly followed her instructions and we were not disappointed. Rocamadour is similar to Cuenca in that houses literally look as if they are clinging onto rock faces. There was a beautiful chapel near the top and a service was in progress when we arrived which was being broadcast throughout the town. It is evidently a place of pilgrimage and is famous because well over 100 miracles are said to have happened there.

Sarlat was a surprise, it has a large medieval section which comprises of tall, sandstone buildings with gorgeous arches and carvings it really is a beautiful place and somewhere I would definitely like to revisit. There are lots of narrow streets and art shops, I could imagine many artists wiling away hours sketching and painting. We got to our Campanile hotel in Limoges at about 7.30 and didn’t go out again as we were pretty tired at that point.

Today we felt we should see a little of Limoges before we head up to our next port of call, Tours. Unfortunately nearly everything seems to be closed on a Monday in Limoges, the weather is rather dull and overcast today so we are getting used to cooler days. The main place we wanted to visit in Limoges was the museum dedicated to porcelaine, which is what the town is famous for (due to large deposits of kaolin in the soil in these parts evidently). The problem was that by the time we found the said museum, housed in a beautiful building it was nearly closing time so we would have only had half an hour before they shut for a 2 hour midday break. All the literature tells you it takes hours to see all they have in there so I think that visit will have to wait for another time.

Although I have had nearly everything out of the car countless times I can’t find my camera! The last time I remember having it was at the restaurant near Denia with Cynthia and Terry. I really hope it turns up as I shall be lost without it. It’s hard to remember where anything is anymore as the car is crammed with bags and I’m hoping at some point I will unearth the camera but I am getting less hopeful all the time.

We are now driving to Tours and I am sorry to say we have chickened out again and booked ahead to stay in another reasonably priced hotel. It really is a bit chilly now and I don’t think either of us relish the thoughts of sleeping under canvas now. I just wish we weren’t carting about so much gear which is not being put to any good use. Only 2 days now and we will be getting on the ferry in Zeebrugge for our return trip to the UK. We feel as if we have been away ages and without this blog for reference I would never remember all the places we have visited over the last 4 weeks.

Bill: Well we are sort of camping – it’s turned so cold that we’ve pushed our beds together and put our quilt over us both. The splendid receptionist raised an eyebrow as we hauled that in!

Tours has certainly made up for the disappointments of Limoges. The Hotel is just a cheapy – Balladins – in the Comfort group mainly frequented by the white van man of France – but comfortable and friendly for all that. We have as much as we need and all the coffee/tea/hot chocolate we can manage plus free breakfast cereals and fruit juice in the communal lounge. We took the bus into Tours – so our tour of Tours showed us how wonderfully the city centre is situated on an island in the Loire. Having walked around the centre we visited the cathedral of Sainte Gatin (?) and Val lit a candle to St. Anthony (as recommended by Madeleine) to locate her lost camera.

We walked down the rue De Foch then had a fantastic Japanese?Korean/Chinese buffet at the “Resto Wok –up” . I may have got some of that in the wrong order! We almost missed the last bus back to Hotel Balladins watching and listening to the fantastic Son et Lumiere projected onto the huge and ornate Hotel de Ville. They’d turned the lights off at the Auchan hypermarket which was our landmark so missed our stop – but the bus driver kindly let us off between stops right outside the hotel. Can’t imagine that happening in West Yorks!

Friday September 24^th

We are now on the road between Denia and Barcelona en route to Madeleine’s house in Toulouse. We have another 8 hour drive today. We had a lovely time with Cynthia and Terry in their villa which is fabulous complete with swimming pool, Jacuzzi and numerous en suite bedrooms! They had a meal prepared for us when we arrived which was very welcome. Yesterday we went into Pego their nearest little town, in the afternoon we had a long walk along the sea front in Denia starting at the marina. That was very pleasant it clouded over but was still very warm. We got back to their place with just half an hour to get changed before we set off to a restaurant in the Jalon valley. It was an interesting journey out there driving up through mountainous areas with terraces of orange groves stretching as far as the eye could see. We enjoyed the meal the restaurant was full of Brits the owner was Spanish but had worked in Ware in Hertfordshire and spoke excellent English. In this area there are so many English speakers I don’t think many of the Brits learn much Spanish at all. As we drive through the countryside here we are amazed at the number of fortresses built at the highest points. Many of them look very Moorish. Evidently the moors got right up to the Pyrenees so their influence isn’t confined to Southern Spain only.

It was great to catch up with Cynthia and Terry. They give us all the latest news on people we all know in Louth. They are thrilled at the moment to discover they are to have another grandchild in February. Richard is settling down with a girl called Lindsay who is a teacher from Sunderland (she has got to be a decent sort of person with that description). Presently she is working in Old Leake, Lincs.

I am enjoying this journey as we are following the coast at the moment as we make our way to France. I can see the Med on our right, beautiful weather again today. I saw the UK news at Cynthia’s and it said it was 12 degrees in parts, can’t say I’m looking forward to going back to cooler climes. Can’t wait to see the boys again though!!!

We are going up via Perpignan, Narbonne, Carcasson on our way to Toulouse.

Arrived here in Toulouse about 8 pm Madeleine had a super 3 course meal ready for us and we eventually got to bed around 1 am after spending time catching up on the last 3 years. Off to explore Toulouse soon. Having difficulty typing now as all the letters on a French keyboard are in the wrong place.

Wednesday September 22^nd

As I write this we are driving to Denia from Vejer. We left the house about 10.30 this morning.Almeria is a dry desert like place spoilt by the “sea of plastic” under which they are growing lots of tasteless fruit and vegetables which fill our supermarket shelves in UK. It is sad to see nothing but white plastic for miles.

We have been very busy over the last few days. We have had our front door totally revamped by the fabulous Jaime who I wish lived in Baildon and could do all our jobs there. He is quiet, unassuming, and talented his charges are always reasonable and he knows exactly what he is doing. The door from the inside (from the patio) looks almost exactly the same as it always did with the enormous bolt but from the outside it looks brand new. After we leave he is coming back to oil and varnish the wood to match the rest of the wood on the windows etc.

Yesterday we went to the Catastro office in Cadiz. We had made an appointment to see a guy called Jose Luis de la Rosa. In his best Spanish Bill endeavoured to explain the fact that we have spent most of the last 5 years trying to get the paper work sorted out on the property in Vejer. We have never understood why it could possibly take so long. Usually people like us never get to the Catasro office it is mainly sorted by solicitors etc but as ours appears to be making no headway whatsoever we decided we would take positive action. When we arrived we had to sit and wait for about half and hour and then we were escorted to Jose by a security guard. As soon as Jose realised we were English he appeared to become very animated and as Bill was explaining the situation he got out a thick tome from a drawer under his desk and we assumed it was some sort of reference material with regard to ancient Spanish properties. How wrong can you be it was a book about the Collingwood family (Admiral Cuthbert Collingwood was second in charge to Nelson) and Jose reckoned to be one of his descendents. He flicked through the book all the time we were talking to him about Casa Angel looking for photos, passages, descriptions of his famous ancestor and pointing out to us the importance of the man.

We kept trying to bring the conversation back to the house. Jose made a few phone calls and kept shaking his head and then pointing to his forehead indicating he was exasperated with the inadequate staff at the other end of the phone. Eventually he said it would all be sorted in about 6 months (we have heard this many times before). I said “Espero que si” he said “Seguro que si” watch this space.

Last night the elusive trio Jeanne, Paul and Bruce turned up. They have kept a very low profile this visit I think this is for a variety of reasons. They told us they want to put up their prices. More expense! I would like to have had one last saunter around Vejer last night but we had loads to do getting the place straight before we left and packing all our gear. We left some of the camping stuff behind, pillows, a bucket, a bowl (the bulky stuff). This doesn’t mean we won’t attempt camping again on our way through France it depends how we feel at the time. Maybe we will find an old caravan and end up towing that back!

Heading for the comfort of Cynthia and Terry’s luxurious villa now ……. Heaven!

Sunday September 19th

Last night we went out with Manolo, Macu and baby Manolito at a place called Cabo de Roche in Conil. We had a nice meal with them and I thoroughly enjoyed Tuna Almadraba which I have never had before but will certainly try again (before it becomes extinct, Bill reckons it is a threatened species). Manolo seems keen to sell Uncle Ted's Organics for us to the local strawberry growers, well we'll see (Damien owner of the Vera Cruz is also up for it). On the way back from the car park we saw Marilo for the first time this visit all dressed up to attend the musical event staged on the walls. She actually looked very good, slimmer and quite smart, she is thrilled because she has passed her driving test at the 11th attempt and now owns her own car. Unfortunately she had a "choca" on the first trip out and the car is now damaged down one side but she seems undaunted and as Bill says it now matches every other car in Vejer!

Today a friend of yours Glen turned up, someone called Sue Rice (now divorced from David who she says you met) she said she met you here at Annie's house many years ago. She saw us on the roof and called up, so we asked her to join us for a manzanilla (which we just happened to be having ourselves at the time). She has a house on Poco Sangre, she has no gas or electricity there. She is living in a camping type situation, she was "denounced", the council refused to let her have electricity installed until she took down her railings on the roof terrace, as they are trying to stop people erecting them. Eventually she had to concede and has spent 400 euros having them removed. She has now got fingers and everything else crossed that she will at last be able to get electricity. I think we were very lucky getting away with our railings and the solar panel. The nuns across the way must have put a good word in for us. Anyway when we found out that Sue was eating on her own this evening at La Patria we said we would join her so we are meeting her later at Bar Trafalgar near her place.

Saturday September 18th
Went to Cadiz yesterday, on the way we called at Chiclana to try and get a new light fitting but couldn’t find anything suitable. As so often happens we managed to get just the right thing back here in Vejer from what we call the drug and ferret shop (Drogues y Ferreteria on Remedios). We have decided the best way to visit Cadiz is to park on the outskirts and get the bus in. So many people who have stayed here have had a nightmare trying to park in the centre of Cadiz so I would recommend doing what we did.

For the first time we went round the main museum in Cadiz which is very interesting. Lots about Pheonician settlements and remains in this area but also a good art gallery which I particularly enjoyed. The museum is free and open all day until 8.30 at night.


Today we have had the workmen in again but without the hassle we endured when we were here earlier this year. Jaime our beloved joiner has started the revamp of the big main door which must have been repaired and patched many times over the decades. It has looked very weather worn and tatty of late and he is giving it a make over! He will do most of the work in his workshop and just keep returning here to attach sections as and when they are complete. The other guy who has been today is called Manolo he has put the Moroccan star light (which wasn’t very functional on the landing outside the lounge) into the “snug”. It looks far better there, the natural light shines through it during the day and at night it can be seen through the window as you approach the house coming up the street. He also fitted the new light mentioned before on the landing. For all his efforts he charged 25 euros which we thought was very reasonable.

There has been a grand wedding in the town today at the main church for some reason many of the guests were English. I think the groom was English although it is hard to tell from his dark appearance. We sat and watched all the comings and goings from the little bar across the way. It was funny seeing all the women trying to cope with cobbled streets in very high heels. I noticed some of them actually took them off when they got the first opportunity. There is a big outdoor music event tonight by the Arco Segur so I imagine some of the wedding guests might end up watching that, typically Spanish it doesn’t start ‘til 11pm.

Had breakfast on roof this morning it was very pleasant. We are beginning to think it won’t be long now ‘til we start the journey north to cooler climes so we really must make the most of this gorgeous weather. Who knows we may have a winter like last year in UK and in that case we will need to soak up all the sun we can while it is possible.